Mondial QV Timing Belts

[Fraccie]

Cambelts on Mondial QV.

This is a guide only,I may forget bits and omit bits, if you follow it verbatim and blow your engine , don`t sue me.

If I forget important bits ,please feel free to comment.

Part one. Taking it in bits.

You can do this at home quite easily, however, SteveW offered me the use of one of his two post ramp. Massive thanks to Steve and Simon for their help, guidance and merciless micky taking.

We first removed the seats, four hex bolts , as they were being sorted at the same time, linkage here

http://www.clubscuderia.co.uk/forum/...ead.php?t=9917

We then put the beams of the two poster under the car. The front ones are OK on the front jacking points, the rear ones need to go further back than the rear jacking points and more under the engine bay chassis sections. Remember this post;

http://www.clubscuderia.co.uk/forum/...ead.php?t=9866

Crack the wheel nuts and get her in the air. We took both wheels and arch liners off as we did the gearbox oil as well. Linkety link here;

http://www.clubscuderia.co.uk/forum/...ead.php?t=9946

Drop the car back down and take off the engine bay lid,only four small nuts and it greatly improves access to ,remove the airbox , the spark plugs,picture 1 and the timing mark plate fitted to the left and underneath the oil filter. Picture 2. Turn the crank slowly ,38mm socket, until the mark on the flywheel lines up with the mark on the engine case visible through this hole. Just.

Undo the top three aircon comp bolts ,near the front fire wall..Get the car back in the air and proceed to remove the gubbins from the business end of the block.

Remove the nuts that hold the timing covers,air con tensioner,water pump tensioner,bottom air con compressor support. At this point, tiewrap the compresser to the inner wing/water pipe, it is bloody heavy and you don`t need it falling on your head.Do you Dave….hee,hee…ask Scud Dave how heavy they are.Release the last two timing cover bolts and withdraw the lot.

When all is apart you should have a pile of oily, greasy and generally old crud like in pic 3.

And realise that you should have done this a while ago. Look how shafted the bearings are in pic 4.

The belts were done 2,000 miles ago. It appears that the bearings were not.

End of part one

[Fraccie]

Cambelts part two.

Get a thin paint brush and some yellow paint.Paint two marks on each pair of cam pulleys EXACTLY in line with each other and paint a thin line at the top of the crank pulley and one inline on the block. Fit the cam locks (piccie one) (piccie two shows them fit.).

Undo the bolt holding the ,supposedly, self adjusting bearing, pic 3. Mine were seized so had to be pryed back,there are lugs there to rest a small prybar so Ferrari obviously knew this would happen. Move both bearings back and remove the belts. At this stage the engine must not be turned in any way.

I stripped the bearing carriers down, cleaned and regreased them, they now do what they should, self adjust. Press the new bearings on and refit them onto the block (pic 4) Leave them slack as you have to move them to fit the belts

Pic 5 shows the old bearings in all their glory…….GULP, how lucky have I been?

Whilst i was in there i scotchbrited all the studs and copperslipped them in readiness for getting everything back together.Also, I gave everything i could a general clean up.

[Fraccie]

Mondial Belts part three.

The bearings need pushing upwards and need locking by nipping the bolts up that hold them on.Hopefully picture one shows how they work.

Slide the new belts over the crank pulley,under the tensioners and over the cam gears (picture two and picture three). The upper cam gears are lipped, the belt has to go over this one first and then press it over the lower cam gear. Make sure your hands are not oily and greasy, you don`t want to contaminate your new belts.Even with the tensioners as slack as possible they are still fairly tight and require a fair amount of effort to get them on.

Once they are on , make sure the lines that you painted on the cam gears line up. Because you have used the cam locks they should, and make sure the lines painted on the crank pulley and engine block line up. Again they should.

Slacken the bolts that hold the tensioners and they will take the belts to the correct tension, hence the need to strip them down ,clean and regrease them.

Remove the cam locks.

Get your 38 mm socket and spin the engine four complete revolutions ( the reason behind removing the spark plugs) by hand and make sure the marks still line up and the marks on the flywheel/engine block line up.Take the revolution timing from the mark you painted on the crank pulley.They should all line up exactly.

I do not race or track my car, so whilst this method is basic, it is more than sufficient. You can dial the cams in if that is your thing.

Clean all the timing covers and ancillary bits that you had to remove to get the covers off,refit them all, tension the water pump belt and alternator belt, preferably without breaking the alternator mounting casting…..

Pic 4 shows the old girl back together

[Iain]

Good stuff Fraccie - who's cam locks did you buy for this?

rgds

I.

[Fraccie]

Originally Posted by Iain

Good stuff Fraccie - who's cam locks did you buy for this?

rgds

I.

SteveW had a pair of snap on one`s that he let me use.I`m sure he`ll pipe up soon about them,good bit of kit, though they do make fitting the new belt a bit more fiddly,worth it though to know that nothing is moving....

[stevew]

Thay are a useful tool but as Ade says they can be a bit fiddly.Moreso on Ade's Mondial than when I did the belts on the 308, think it was down to there being a little bit more room inside the wheelarch on the 308 than the Mondial.Critical thing is to mark up the cams before removing he old belts.