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Thread: 355 alarm issue

  1. #11
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    Evening

    Iím dont think Iím looking at the right switches you mention, any further info on what they look like?

    Regards

  2. #12
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    I just checked my car, and the door switches are located between the bottom door hinge arm and the A pillar. My garage is very narrow, so I can't open the door wide enough to take a photo.
    It seems there is no detent or clicking sound, but as long as the door warning light on the instrument panel comes on and goes off when you open and close each door individually, they should be ok. You'll probably need the ignition on (or in ACCY) to get the light to illuminate.

    The engine lid switch is at the bottom of the latch. Again, there doesn't seem to be a detent or click, but at least you can give it a shot with electrical cleaner. Let it dry properly (I don't see a drain hole). If you're really keen, you can remove the switch and check it with an ohmmeter. Don't try to remove the electrical plug without removing the earth stud first or you might damage the wiring. I can't recall if the engine lid and front luggage compartment is tied into the door open warning light on the instrument panel, but you could check it out.

    These switches do fail from time to time, but from what I'm reading on the forum, it sounds like the siren battery seems to be a more likely cause. I was just hoping it was an easy fix (no disassembly required)

  3. #13
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    I would suggest you have two faults, the red light on is the siren battery (fix posted by Steve (redwedge) and the other is the lock mechanism in the door.

    One of the door lock mechanisms is not locking the door and telling the other door not to lock hence neither are locking.

    Have you tried locking each door with the key? When you then press the fob what happens?

    The problem is to find which of the door lock mechanisms is at fault. To do this you will need to remove both door cards. I had the problem on a Mondial t which is a similar system to the 355.

    IIRC you had "help" the locking action by pulling/pressing on the door lock levers with the door closed to find the bad unit. I cannot remember the exact process but this will get you on the right track.

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    Also need to check the short connectors to the lock (whitish plastic squares in the picture), they break and could be jamming movement of the locking mechanism.

  4. #14
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    One of the door lock mechanisms is not locking the door and telling the other door not to lock hence neither are locking.
    Interesting. I didn't notice the extra wires to the door locks in the wiring diagrams. I thought it was the function of the door open (interior lights) switches to sense the position of the doors and keep the doors from locking if they were open. I guess these switches are just for alarm triggering?

    Red355, disregard what I said about the door open switches and bonnet switches. I carried out some tests on my own car and the doors will lock if the engine lid, for example, is open. The alarm system, however, probably uses these to trigger the alarm (if forced open) and may set a fault light if you lock the car with these open (?)

    Theory: It looks like a momentary earth signal from the console "door lock" switch (or alarm system) is sent to the door lock ECU which activates both door lock motors. If the doors are physically closed (i.e. latched onto the cylindrical post on the door frame), a microswitch (in the doorlock) is activated and this takes a permanent earth off the (both) doors unlock circuit, allowing the door to lock. However, I don't see how this circuit would work when unlocking the doors. You can still unlock the doors with the doors physically closed.

    Fig9_Mirrors_Doorlocks_5.2(1997~).gif
    Last edited by Qavion; 08-01-2019 at 10:49 PM.

  5. #15
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    However, I don't see how this circuit would work when unlocking the doors. You can still unlock the doors with the doors physically closed.
    P.S. I guess it could just be the way the Door Locking ECU is programmed. If it gets both a lock and unlock signal at the same time, the doors will unlock.

    I guess the most likely candidate is the driver's door, as that is the one which is used most often.

    Terry, would you have a photograph of the other side of the door lock? I'm just wondering if the latch microswitch is visible (and if it could be replaced if required).

  6. #16
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    Thankyou for taking the time to help me out with this issue!.

    The day the remote locking packed it I had my son with me so the passenger door was getting some use, now I was having a fiddle today and stupidly messed the door latch position up, had to unlatch them by holding the door handle and use a screwdriver!. Now I can only open the passenger door from the inside so Iím guessing something has come off inside hence no longer being able to open the door from the outside.

    So looks like Iíll have to remove the door cards in any case, also Iíve replaced the batteryís in the second black slave fob and also the red fob, they both light up but do nothing, ive only ever used same fob, do I need to programme them somehow?

    the red LED on the dash hasnít been playing up lately so not sure whatís going on there!

    Finally, Whiskt researching this subject Iíve realised some owners have a PIN number incase there fob fails which enables them to enter the pin to start the car, is there anyway to obtain a new pin?

  7. #17
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    There are a number of known mechanical issues with 355 door locks. Hills Engineering (UK) has a few items (overengineered to last a lifetime):

    https://www.hillengineering.co.uk/co...indows-related

    Iíve replaced the batteryís in the second black slave fob and also the red fob, they both light up but do nothing, ive only ever used same fob, do I need to programme them somehow?
    Strange. The red one should be ok. Is the black one a clone or original? Some clones require you to push the button a few hundred times (in some cases) to resync. Sometimes the battery contacts in the fobs are a little loose. I had to pack paper under one of my batteries to make it sit in the right position for better contact.

    some owners have a PIN number incase there fob fails
    Well, all owners should have a PIN. Have you checked all your paperwork? It comes in a sealed package.

    Quoting someone on FChat:

    The original importer (FNA?) may have a record of your PIN which they should give to you for free, if they have it.

    If not, they can request the PIN from the factory. In the UK, this costs £200.

    If the factory PIN works, you can add used fobs or buy a new fob set.

    If the factory PIN doesn't work, you can buy a new set of anti-theft boards and fobs.


    The last one is extremely expensive. Another option is to send your Immobiliser ECU and fobs to specialists. e.g. in Australia (Immofix) and sweat on the parts surviving the postal service. They are not cheap. Gobble (Mark) at FerrariChat may be able to help you and with creating new fobs (at cheaper than Ferrari prices).

    The red led problems may be related to the siren battery, but I would get that door fixed first. At least you can lock the car with the key. As Red355 suggested, part of your alarm problem may be that doorlock.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qavion View Post
    Terry, would you have a photograph of the other side of the door lock? I'm just wondering if the latch microswitch is visible (and if it could be replaced if required).
    Found this picture of the other side.

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    Side

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  9. #19
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    Looking through some of my old records, I recall that it was the motor contained within the lock mechanism that failed.

    I tracked down a supplier for the motor in Singapore and IIRC I purchased a couple but only used one.

    It was one of these two but do not recall which.

    fc_280pdsd.pdf

    fc_280ptst.pdf

    Of course changing the whole lock mechanism is easier once you determine which is faulty and you can find a used one.

    If your car is not a Spider, Maranello are showing the RH side is available, PN 64312700 at £190 inc VAT, the left hand side is showing not available.

    If you confirm a bad motor within the lock mechanism, I will look to see if I can find my spare and you can have it.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry
    Found this picture of the other side.
    Thanks, Terry.
    Looks like the microswitch is well-hidden.

    Thanks also for the information on the motors.

    I wonder why the doorlocks are different on the spider. The wiring looks the same.

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