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Thread: 348 running issue

  1. #1
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    Default 348 running issue

    Hello chaps

    My 348 has an issue and im posting here in the hopes someone can give me an idea of the “common” issues these cars have which could help identify what is wrong

    Last drive out in my car the power just went, Ive taken the car to some mechanic friends and each one of them sais there doesnt sound to be anything majorly wrong with the car, possibly fuel or electrical.

    The car hasnt dropped a bank, Put your foot down in 1st gear and its like your taking off in 4th the powers just flat

    Today im going to replace all the relays and go from there, any help will be greatly appreicated

  2. #2
    sssdu01 is offline No I'm Spartacus Committee Member
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    Sounds like a fuel issue to me, as hard power/revs in a higher gear needs more fuel than in first. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed ??. Also check the fuel pump electrical connectors. Also have a look at any flexible fuel pipes, if they are original they can partly delaminate and the, inner part of flexible pipe can act like a flap and restrict flow. With the crap they put in modern fuel I would want to replace all the flexible fuel pipes regardless.

    I will spare everyone the science lesson, but in summary Modern Fuel has ethanol and other additives, that will eat most types of flexible pipes, and can produce a bye product form of acid that will eat aluminium as well. Avoid supermarket fuel and try and get some ethanol free if you can. Newly made fuel pipes should be made from ethanol resistant material. If going DIY on this go to a reputable UK supplier and avoid Chinese e bay stuff !!

  3. #3
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    A348W is online now Remember the Alamo! Club Member
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    If you are not dropping a single bank then you are dealing with either:
    1) two parts failing, on each bank at the same time (very unlucky) or
    2) single point failure for both banks; that puts it into a lower power mode of some description.

    Is the fault intermittent or permanent? If the latter, how does it idle, smooth or rough?

    Ideally need a bit more info, but some thoughts....

    So fuel system:
    - I'm not aware of any single point failure that would effect both banks at the same time yet still allow the car to run.
    - as Simon says, when was the last time the fuel filters were changed?
    - Check that both pumps are running; easily done by hotwiring them or taking a fuse/relay out.
    - Fuel lines, despite some peoples views, they are lifed items; ie they only last so long before they brake down.
    - check the fuel pressure on both sides. as Simon says the rubber in fuel pumps/tanks breaks down and can happily clog the filters there (not just the external filters);
    - fuses and relays are sided; as far as I know and would result in a single bank going down, not a reduction in power to both banks.

    Electrical:
    - I've not had to fault find a common bank issue so cant really comment without digging into the wiring diagrams; but that would be were I'd start looking for common points. But again what would affect both banks and allow them to run? - Cat ECUs will affect a single bank, and put the car into a safe mode, ie reduced power and as far as I'm aware are completely separate each bank. If you have them fitted, try disconnecting them completely; not just the sensors to the CAT ECUs, you need to disconnect the CAT ECUs from the wiring harness. Might be an issue with both at the same time?
    - have you left it out in the rain recently? Could be wet electrical terminals / HT leads if you have. This can do all sorts of fun things. Simple cure is lots of WD40, start the car and let it run for a good period to get heat into the engine bay to dry everything out.

  4. #4
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    Pangea is offline I mince along like a girl Club Member
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    What makes you think it hasn't dropped a bank? From what you describe it sounds like it. Any lights on the dash when it happens? Are the slow down warning bulbs fitted? Do they illuminate when you switch the ignition on? Is it an engine hot or cold issue? How often does it happen. ? Sorry for all the questions but the more info the better.
    There are probably some codes stored in the ECUs which would help you but you need to access them. Read my thread from post 663. May be of help. http://www.clubscuderia.co.uk/forum/...oration/page67 Its an OBD 1 system and most mechanics would know about it. Fault code list available if you need.
    Generally the most common problem with loss of power is the Catalyser heat warning ECUs breaking down. Possibly a damp issue. As mentioned already. The slow down light of the affected bank should illuminate when this happens. Bulbs fitted of course.

  5. #5
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    Hi

    Ive had 3 seperate mechanics all say its running on all eight, the expressions “its even” was used by all 3

    The issue is permament, it a struggle to build up speed in the car so limp mode comes to mind

    When its been revved, once you stop reving the motor tends to stall

    Today ive replaced the relays, disconnected the cat ecus and disconnected the maf sensors, aswell as a ECU reset, still have the problem

    the fuel filters are due a change

  6. #6
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    Also im getting no slow down lights, they do light up on ignition but dissapear

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    Pangea is offline I mince along like a girl Club Member
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    I would see if I could get codes out of the ECUs if they are any present. It has to be a 2.7 system though. The answer may be there. Its just guesswork otherwise. As I said, read my thread for guidance on the process. Ive just posted the codes too. At least you may be able to discount several potential problems. Most USA cars have this fitted standard but not the Euro cars.

    Also, it may well idle perfectly on 8 cyls. but soon as its driven and loaded up it will break down.
    Last edited by Pangea; 05-12-2018 at 04:53 PM.

  8. #8
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    Hi

    I purchased the test button but need to make an harness, i will take a look at your thread

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Will348 View Post
    Hi

    I purchased the test button but need to make an harness, i will take a look at your thread
    Its likely you will have some historic codes stored so see what you have and make a note then clear the codes and retest until fault occurs. Then read again. I would reconnect the Cat ECUs too. You should have a historic code for those as they have been disconnected (4121). Also read codes with the engine running or you should get a crank sensors error due to them not operating correctly on engine rotation. These are a common component to fail more often than not due to the connecting loom being in a degraded state. But you don't want to be mislead by a false code.

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the useful information

    Regarding the Mafs, i disconnected them and turned the engine on to see if it ran any better, Just like i did with the cat ecus, would this actually rule out faulty mafs or do they need to be plugged in

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