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Thread: 348 hot start kit

  1. #21
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    yes i installed a new battery first to rule that out as the car had been stored for sometime!


    Yes last thursday night all power went just round the corner from home, almost as if i was running out of fuel.

    I tried the car after i had the alternator repaired and its just got no power and wont rev up

    Theres no slow down light on the dash however since the night in question my headlight icon doesnt appear either, although all the lights appear upon start up so cant be the bulbs
    Last edited by ben111; 18-10-2018 at 07:02 PM.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pangea View Post
    What do you mean by limp home mode? Have you lost a bank of cylinders?
    This would rule out several things either way.
    For example your fault would either be common to both banks like petrol, or something on one bank like a coil pack.
    If a bank is down you still would have almost 1/2 power and it should still rev but just sound very rough.
    How long was the storage?

  3. #23
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    When it happened, it certainly felt more of a struggle than losing half the power, although not knowing what on earth happened i wasnt wanting to “push” the engine too much, it certainly sounds a little rough and sometimes when i blip the throttle the engines revs drops to an almost stall.

    My ecu has the lead but no button so ive ordered one, ive read i may also have no check engine lights, are these not the slow down lights 1-4 & 5-8?

    Not sure if im missing a bank, i plan on removing a module and trying to start the car and see if it struggles on one of them

    as ive mentioned my speedos no longer illuminating which was working fine up until this issue, so im not sure if the two are related or just a coincidence

  4. #24
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    When it happened, it certainly felt more of a struggle than losing half the power, although not knowing what on earth happened i wasnt wanting to “push” the engine too much, it certainly sounds a little rough and sometimes when i blip the throttle the engines revs drops to an almost stall.

    My ecu has the lead but no button so ive ordered one, ive read i may also have no check engine lights, are these not the slow down lights 1-4 & 5-8?

    Not sure if im missing a bank, i plan on removing a module and trying to start the car and see if it struggles on one of them

    as ive mentioned my speedos no longer illuminating which was working fine up until this issue, so im not sure if the two are related or just a coincidence

  5. #25
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    Now you’ve sorted your voltage problem, it’s sounds like it could be loosing a bank from what you have said.

    For the cost I’d replace the crank case sensors (£40 each) from Kia. They are a common failure point and for the price easy to rule out. If you have the exhaust ecus connected, disconnect those and then see how you go.

    If it’s still misbehaving, first thing to do is see if you are just loosing one bank or both. If it’s one bank, as the fuel system and electronics are separate each side, then start swapping stuff around to find the fault. (Lots of threads on this).

    Keep us posted.

  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben111 View Post
    When it happened, it certainly felt more of a struggle than losing half the power, although not knowing what on earth happened i wasnt wanting to “push” the engine too much, it certainly sounds a little rough and sometimes when i blip the throttle the engines revs drops to an almost stall.

    My ecu has the lead but no button so ive ordered one, ive read i may also have no check engine lights, are these not the slow down lights 1-4 & 5-8?

    Not sure if im missing a bank, i plan on removing a module and trying to start the car and see if it struggles on one of them

    as ive mentioned my speedos no longer illuminating which was working fine up until this issue, so im not sure if the two are related or just a coincidence

    The check engine lights are different to the slow down lights. Have a look at my thread. Here is a pic anyway. Put some bulbs in. Not fitted to Euro cars standard. They should illuminate just on the ignition key and go out if no fault. It may indicate which bank if thats the case. The two under the temp gauge. You don't need the button as you can loop the loom connector with a piece of cable or the like. Port 1 and 2 on the loom. Grey and red and the centre black wires if I remember. If you have the workshop manual all the code information and reading process is in section C.

    Or thanks to Ernie on F chat.

    Okay guys I have some more info on pulling the codes. You may have only pulled one code out of the ECU. After you get the first set of flashes giving you the numbers for the first code you need to move on to get the next code from the ECU. What you have to do is hold the button down again for :02.5 - :05 seconds, then the ECU will give you the next set of flashes for the following code stored in the ECU. At the beginning of each set of code flashes there is a long flash indicating the beginning of the sequence. After all for numbers have been flashed there will be a pause, and it just starts over again, with the long flash indicating the beginning. Now after it has gone through the series of flashes, what you want to do is wait until the last number is flashed, then hold the button down during the long flash 02.5 sec) and let go in the middle of the pause. This will get you to the next stored code. As I said before the next code will start with a long flash, then a pause, then the flashes start for the next code. You just keep doing this until you have pulled all the codes out of the ECU. When all of the codes have been pull you will get nothing but long flashes. When you are at this point, that is when you want to hold the button down for :10 seconds to clear the codes out.

    I have been having a misfire problem with my car, so today I pulled the codes for my car. I got the 4121, which is the exhaust ecu I have disconnected. Then I got 4114 which is the TDC control unit. The book say you will always get the TDC code when the engine is off. The next one I got was 1444, which is the M.I.L. Okay I looked everywhere and the book doesn't say what the M.I.L. is. I'm hoping this is what is causing my misfire. But the problem is, I don't know what the freeking M.I.L. is, and can't find it in the stupid book!

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  7. #27
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    Thanks for the info, appreciate the help guys

  8. #28
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    Bit of an update

    bank 5-8 was down, the cause was the rear number plate wiring was shorting and blowing a fuse which was upsetting the relay, unbelievable something so simple can shut down half the engine but there you go!

    Now thats sorted i can get back to my initial issue with the starting, hoping the alternator refurb has fixed that!

  9. #29
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    Which relay Ben? Im a bit confused how its all related.

  10. #30
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    The night the bank dropped the car also developed some Electrical gremlins, it was my friend who found/diagnosed the wire shorting, aparantly it was the fuel relays.

    Mechanical im fine with but electrics arent my area of expertise!

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