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Thread: Ferrari 348 engine bay and rear end restoration.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pangea View Post
    Hi Jeff, Yep. Read those threads. Ive sent the ECU for testing and possible repair today. There is nothing more I can do for now until I get the report.
    Who are you using for the test/repair, Nick?

  2. #672
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    Pangea is offline Rear lights like a farm gate - The Ferrari 348 Club Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nosevi View Post
    Who are you using for the test/repair, Nick?
    A few of the local techs have been using these guys recently so I opted to send it to them. Ive not used them before but they seem to have a good reputation.

    http://www.ecutesting.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pangea View Post
    A few of the local techs have been using these guys recently so I opted to send it to them. Ive not used them before but they seem to have a good reputation.

    http://www.ecutesting.com
    Thanks. Will keep them in mind if the need ever arises

  4. #674
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    Just spoke to ECU Testing. Unit was faulty so my diagnosis was correct. Good news is that its fixable. Not much detail but the engineer said it was caused by a voltage spike somewhere along the line. No idea when that might have been. Not used a jump pack or anything. Anyway, cost is 248 which I think is reasonable. Thought it might be a lot more. Hopefully fit and forget. Will report further when Ive tested it on the car.


    ECU Testing were a good company to deal with. It took a bit longer than normal ( 2 working days extra ) due to the code variant of the unit but they keep you informed throughout the process and contact you before any repairs with costs.

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    Definitely seems like an outfit we should all keep details on, Nick. These 80s/90s circuit boards will only last so long and the odd failure down the line is almost inevitable.

  6. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nosevi View Post
    Definitely seems like an outfit we should all keep details on, Nick. These 80s/90s circuit boards will only last so long and the odd failure down the line is almost inevitable.
    Sure Pete. Ive used others in the past with ok results but these guys seem to know their stuff. Another well know outfit turned it down and said they didn't have the test kit available. Just hope it holds up.

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    Good to hear its fixed! I'll keep this thread in the back of my mind should I have any issues. (Bit worrying when somebody says they don't have the kit to test an old 80s pcb...thought that was just a multimeter )

    Appreciate your opinion Nick. Ordered new front suspension components from Ferrari and a pile of new nuts! Ball joints came with nyloc nuts (didn't realise they came with them) and the nuts ordered separately are the crimped type (sorry don't know the technical name). As I now have a choice, which one would you put on?

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  8. #678
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    Hi Adrien,
    You should find the originals will be castellated nuts with split pins. I have used the nylock as mine came with those too. No issues. You may want to use a washer too. If you wanted to use the original type with pins you will probably have to drill the threaded portion as the new won't have the holes. Can be done but its up to you. Always renew the nylocks if removing for any reason in future as its suspension / steering. Good practice.

  9. #679
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    Thanks Nick.

    Interesting, as the ones on the car are castellated with split pins, but the nuts sent through by Ferrari are not. Nyloc will do, as I don't have the jig to drill for split pins and the "shopping" bill is a bit more than the missus thinks so need to be partially sensible!

    Agree replacing the nylocs, and have a few bags of them in various sizes for the job. (replaced them all when I did the rear suspension last winter)

  10. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pangea View Post
    Due to an initially very intermittent fault thats been getting worse I decided to retro fit the diagnostic system as fitted to the US cars. This enables you to read codes from flashing lights on the dash and also isolate which bank is the problem. It really is a very simple task and requires just a few simple parts and a bit of time.

    The fault appeared to be heat orientated and at first only happened very occasionally ( not every drive ) and very much like the cat ecu problem which blights cars of this era in which it would loose half the cylinders briefly. I wasn't convinced it was the cat ecus as there was no slow down lights. To be sure I disconnected them and drove around like that for a while. Nothing for a period of time and then it happened again.Sort of in and out quickly but recently I had to drive home across town with four cylinders dropping in and out every few seconds so that was it for me. It had to be sorted now. It felt like a bad coil type of misfire. Of course at a standstill and not under load nothing. Only when driven would there be any issue although today for the first time it felt a bit rough at idle.

    This is a Motronic 2.7 modification only I believe.

    Parts are as listed......

    2 momentary switches available from Ferrari. Part no. 145810. 6.00 + vat.
    2 AMP connector kits. 3 pin. You need half of each. Use pin ports 1 and 2 although there are 3 wires at the loom.
    4 female spade connectors.
    Some heat shrink.
    There is a joining loom listed by Ferrari but I made my own as I had the bits.
    2 2W capless dash bulbs.

    You can see where to put the bulbs in the console in the pics. There should be two empty holders in place ready.

    You can see extra loom that needs to be in place for this mod.
    Attachment 153457

    Attachment 153458

    Attachment 153459

    Attachment 153460

    Attachment 153461

    Attachment 153462

    With bulbs fitted to dash and ignition on. Both should go out when started.

    Attachment 153463

    Engine running and showing fault on 1-4 bank. Hold button in for 5 seconds and release. Code flashes after one long light. Short flashes ..... 4121 which is cat ecu. Historic. No other code. Check bank 5-8 and 4121 the same cat ecu code. Historic. No other code.

    Attachment 153464

    Hmmm. I now start thinking that I may have a main ECU issue so I swapped them over from left to right. Warning light now moves to bank 5-8 so it looks like the 1-4 ECU is at fault.

    Attachment 153465

    Attachment 153466

    Time to get it checked out. Probably replaced.
    This works for pulling and resetting codes. Takes a bit of practice initially. Thought I would add it to the thread. Credit to Ernie off FChat.

    Okay guys I have some more info on pulling the codes. You may have only pulled one code out of the ECU. After you get the first set of flashes giving you the numbers for the first code you need to move on to get the next code from the ECU. What you have to do is hold the button down again for :02.5 - :05 seconds, then the ECU will give you the next set of flashes for the following code stored in the ECU. At the beginning of each set of code flashes there is a long flash indicating the beginning of the sequence. After all for numbers have been flashed there will be a pause, and it just starts over again, with the long flash indicating the beginning. Now after it has gone through the series of flashes, what you want to do is wait until the last number is flashed, then hold the button down during the long flash 02.5 sec) and let go in the middle of the pause. This will get you to the next stored code. As I said before the next code will start with a long flash, then a pause, then the flashes start for the next code. You just keep doing this until you have pulled all the codes out of the ECU. When all of the codes have been pull you will get nothing but long flashes. When you are at this point, that is when you want to hold the button down for :10 seconds to clear the codes out.

    I have been having a misfire problem with my car, so today I pulled the codes for my car. I got the 4121, which is the exhaust ecu I have disconnected. Then I got 4114 which is the TDC control unit. The book say you will always get the TDC code when the engine is off. The next one I got was 1444, which is the M.I.L. Okay I looked everywhere and the book doesn't say what the M.I.L. is. I'm hoping this is what is causing my misfire. But the problem is, I don't know what the freeking M.I.L. is, and can't find it in the stupid book!

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